should i wire amp to battery ground isolator

#Should i wire amp to battery ground isolator install
#Should i wire amp to battery ground isolator driver
#Should i wire amp to battery ground isolator series

In position 2, the rear battery would be disconnected from the main battery so it could not discharge it but the rear battery wouldn't be able to be recharged. In position 2, the amplifiers would be fed from the rear battery. When in the '1' position, the amplifiers would be fed from the engine starting battery. When in the 'ALL' position, all batteries would be connected together and also connected to the main power wire for the amplifiers. The rear/auxiliary battery would be connected to the remaining terminal. The engine starting battery would be connected to one of the other terminals. If this were used for car audio, the common would be connected to the main power wire that feeds the amplifiers. Terminals 1 and 2 are connected to batteries. In its most commonly used wiring configuration, the common wire feeds the starter for the boat's engine. The common terminal is the one that gets connected to the other terminals. Terminal 1, terminal 2 and a common terminal. The back of this switch has 3 connections.

#Should i wire amp to battery ground isolator driver

When needed, the power can be cut to the amplifiers and locked out so that the driver cannot damage the speakers. The locking version of this switch and the previous switch are good choices for people who have expensive, powerful amplifiers and speakers in vehicles which others are allowed to drive. It's also available with a key to allow you to lock it. There are also options to break the connections to the field windings to the alternators but this one doesn't have that option. The one below can switch between two individual batteries, both batteries at once or can break the connection to the batteries completely. This type of switch comes in several configurations. This is a term used to many of the switches of this type, no matter the manufacturer. Most of those who use an isolator for marine applications have heard the Term Perko Switch. In this particular model, the 'key' is removable. As long as you don't mind having to manually flip the switch and can remember to do so, this is a good, simple solution. In one position, the batteries are connected.

#Should i wire amp to battery ground isolator series

To use a battery disconnect switch like the one below to protect the starting battery from being discharged, you would simply connect it in series with the wire that connects the front and back batteries. The most basic isolator is simply a heavy duty switch (generally rated for at least 100 amps of current) that is used to make/break the connection between the batteries.

#Should i wire amp to battery ground isolator install

This type of isolator is slightly more complex to install than the most basic types of isolators. Most people opt for isolators that require no action on their part to keep the starting battery from being discharged. A battery isolator will let you completely discharge one battery without discharging the starting battery. This often leads to dead batteries and a vehicle that won't start. I don't have any background in electronics or automotive wiring, so just researching various threads but don't have any framework to evaluate what's right/wrong, and there seem to be a lot of conflicting opinions.Many people listen to their stereo or use accessories (lights, radio, TV, computers, for those with RVs) without the engine running. So I'm guessing the head unit is somehow being ground already? Via the antenna plug? If that's the case, would grounding it twice cause any of these 'subtle' issues? Interestingly, simple connecting the 3 wires listed together in the harness was fine - everything worked fine. I just connected all the together to a single wire and ran that wire to some bare metal behind the stereo for chassis ground. There were several wires that needed to be grounded:

With regards to grounding, I know best practice is to ground everything off a single point. Does anyone know which is the better/proper way? After some reading, sounds like the ground-loop isolators are more of a 'mask the problem' solution - and significantly reduce the sound quality?Īny chance this pop is due to some bad ground? This website seems to suggest some fixes: Engine whine and ground loop fixes. I've also seen a post where someone installed a Relay on the blue/white wire to get it to cut out instantly ( link). I've heard of people installing group-loop isolators on the RCA outs to avoid this ( thread). Specifically, that the head unit takes a second longer to cut power which causes the amp to build up a charge and release it - hence the noise.

Did a bunch of research and this forum and elsewhere and sounds like, if I understand correctly, it's an issue with the blue/white wire coming out of the head unit into the 'amp turn on' (blue wire) on the Metra Harness. I'm getting a loud 'pop' whenever the head unit turns on or even when changing modes or radio stations. So I installed a Pioneer head unit using the Metra 70-7551 harness, which uses the RCA outputs on the radio and uses the stock Rockford F amp.